To have the transmission removed, check for things like the oil seals and replace them if they need to be replaced. Next remove the clutch and check or renew the clutch parts and release bearing. Use a centre-punch or paint to make alignment marks on flywheel and crankshaft for correct alignment during refitting. Prevent the flywheel from turning by locking the teeth of the ring gear or bolting a strap between the flywheel and the cylinder block or the crankcase, then slacken the Torx bolts evenly until they are all free. Make sure to remove each bolt in turn, getting new bolts to reassemble the structure because bolts are exposed to severe stresses and therefore should be renewed each time the structure is disturbed. Withdraw the heavy flywheel carefully so as not to drop it. Clean flywheel, removing grease and oil, inspecting the surface for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks, light scoring can be removed using emery cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear teeth, lay the flywheel on a flat surface to check for warpage with a straight-edge. Clean and examine the mating surfaces of the flywheel and crankshaft, replacing the crankshaft seal if leaking, particularly if the engine has been put to high miles. Thoroughly clean the threaded bolt holes in the crankshaft, getting rid of any traces of locking compound. Fit the flywheel to the crankshaft, making sure that the dowel is in line with the hole, and insert the new bolts. Lock the flywheel by the method used in dismantling, and working in a diagonal sequence, tighten up the bolts according to the specified torque setting on a torque wrench before refitting the clutch and transmission.