If no work is to be done on the
Pistons and connecting rods, it is unnecessary to remove the cylinder head and pistons, the latter being pushed up the bores to clear the crankpins. The procedure is to take the oil pump, sump, intermediate section, clutch parts, flywheel/driveplate out of the engine, and then the pistons and connecting rods. Before you remove the crankshaft, check the endfloat by refitting the intermediate section of the crankshaft temporarily and fitting a dial gauge along with the crankshaft. Push the crankshaft away from the gage in order to zero the gage, then make it lever toward the gage to measure the endfloat. If the endfloat is found to be out of specifications, check the crankshaft thrust surfaces for wear; if no wear is detected, new thrust washers should clear the problem. After removing the intermediate section pull the crankshaft out carefully and remove the upper half main bearing shells, but in order. Clean the crankshaft with paraffin or a good solvent making sure the oil holes are clear. Inspect the main and big-end bearing journals for wear, scoring, pitting and cracking. Big-end bearing wear may cause metallic knocking and oil pressure loss, and main bearing wear may cause engine vibration and rumble, not only increasing with speed, but also causing oil pressure loss. Check for roughness on the bearing journal as any roughness means that it needs to be regrinded or needs to be renewed. Have the crankshaft measured and inspected by an engine reconditioning specialist for advice on undersize bearings and reconditioning.