Chock the front wheels, slacken the rear roadwheel nuts, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands then remove the rear wheels. With full release of the handbrake lever follow the accompanying visuals for the pad renewal procedure, being careful to remove the caliper retaining spring using a screwdriver, as well as the rubber caps for the guide pin bolts and then unscrew them with an Allen key or Hexagon drive bit and prise out. Release the hydraulic hose from the bracket, take the caliper off the disc and take the outer pad and then the inner pad off. Measure the thickness of the friction material for the pads; if it's 2.0mm or less, renew all the rear pads. If new pads are to be fitted, use a piston retraction tool to push the piston back into the caliper while rotating it clockwise, while keeping an eye on the fluid level in the
Brake Master Cylinder. Clean the pad mounting surfaces on the caliper mounting bracket with a wire brush, fit the inner pad then the outer pad, slide the caliper over the pads, hold the caliper in place, screw down the guide pin bolts and tighten them to the specified torque before fitting the guide pin rubber caps and using pliers to refit the caliper retaining spring. If re-installing the original pads, make sure they are fitted to their original positions, clean the caliper guide surfaces and guide pins thoroughly and apply a little brake assembly grease. After performing the procedure, push the brake pedal several times until the brake pads are pushed into firm engagement with the
Brake Disc and the brake pedal pressure is returned to normal. Repeat the procedure on the other brake caliper, adjust the handbrake if required, re-fit the roadwheels, lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the roadwheel nuts to the specified torque. Finally, check the level of the hydraulic fluid, bearing in mind that new pads will not deliver full braking efficiency until they have bedded-in, so hard braking for the first hundred miles or so after renewal is best avoided.