At specified intervals, jack up and remove each road wheel in turn to examine the thickness of the friction material on the disc pads, which can be assessed by the proximity of the pad backing plate to the tension spring, though for a precise evaluation, the damping spring must be removed. If the pads are worn down to between 1/8 and 1/16 inch (1.6 and 3.2 mm), they need to be replaced. For Girling systems, remove the hairpin-shaped locking clips for the guide pins, pull out one retaining pin while holding the damper spring, and then remove the springs and the other retaining pin. In ATE systems, tap out the upper retaining pin, take out the damper spring, and tap out the lower retaining pin. Withdraw the disc pads, using pliers if necessary, and mark them if they are to be reused to ensure they are returned to their original position. Clean the inside faces of the housings and check the dust covers for damage, replacing any that are compromised, as they are held on by clip rings. To accommodate new pads, push the pistons down into the cylinders carefully with a screwdriver, taking care not to damage the dust covers, and siphon out some fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to prevent overflow. Fitting new pads or refitting old ones is simply the reverse of the removal process. After installation, depress the footbrake pedal several times to position the pads against the disc and check the master cylinder fluid reservoir, topping it up as necessary. Disc pads should be replaced in axle sets, so repeat the process on the opposite wheel, and any noise from disc pad squeal on the rear brakes may indicate incorrect positioning of the piston cut-out.